When Sister Mag Patterns approached us about making one of their patterns we were excited to explore their collection. We were drawn the details of the 16-6 Sleeveless dress with the collar, epaulettes and unique tuck detail through the armhole. The dress features a pleated skirt that has a playful swing and long zipper in the back.
The pattern comes in at an at home A4 version and print shop A0 size. We opted for the A0 zero option and made sure to turn off the layers we did not need and just printed our size.
Fabrication
For the fabrication, Sister Mag recommends virgin wool, cool wool fabrics or a fabric that has a nice slightly heavier drape.
We ordered a lovely ink blue Cora 8 Wal Corduroy from Fabric Deluxe and ordered a little extra so that we could lengthen the skirt. We love the mod style of the skirt but are looking to make a dress we can wear into the office so a longer skirt was needed this time.
Construction Process
We are very visual when it comes to construction instructions. The instruction booklet features a set of dotpoints so we took photos as we constructed our version of the dress and have shared them below with a combination of their instructions and our own notes.
Alterations
The fit of the pattern was great so the only pattern alternation we made was 1cm lift for a sway back. In fabrication we didn’t use leather instead a lined side panel and continued the lining throughout the bodice.
As we mentioned before, to make it suitable for our office spaces we lengthened the skirt but kept the original line and fullness of the skirt.
Due to the heavy weight of the fabric we inserted an exposed zipper compared to an invisible zipper which would be suitable for a lighter fabric.
Step by Step
We lengthened the skirt to be below knee so measured from the existing hemline down. 
Mark the points on the pattern for the fold breaks of the skirt 
pin and stitch the pleats together 3 cm
in at the top edges
Iron in the pleats in all skirt panels, noting they are box pleats 
Sew the pleats to the top edges, keeping the pleats in a little on the inside, so there is no tension. 
Overlock the side seams (we did an open seam due to the weight of our fabric). Sew side seams. 
Draw darts in the front panel. Press darts up 
Iron the folds along the drawn lines to the inside. Sew shoulder seams. 
Create side panels by placing right sides together and stitch along the top – there was already seam allowance included in the pattern piece. 
Understitch the lining and press 
Place strips for epaulettes right sides together and sew together on the long edge, press and then one short side, turn and top-stitch foot wide. 
Attached the epaulettes at the shoulder seam, only pinning the folded edge. 
Mark seam line on lining 
Cut back excess lining to include 1.5cm allowance 
Pin side panels to the back panels and the front panel 
It looks a bit messy but you can sew from the waist over the shoulder all the way down the back in one line 
We pinned down the tuck 
Top-stitch the fold over 4 cm / 1.6 in wide and sew on the side panels and epaulettes. We stitched from the inside as we could see an even line. 
Ensure the epaulettes are free from the top stitching. This is how the bodice will look from the outside 
Inside of bocide. 
Interfacing the collar 
Place 2 collar panels right sides together and sew together, leaving bottom edges open. 
Understitch on underside of collar 
Place right side together and close both ends of the collar 
Turn through and press 
Samwich the collar between the colour stand 
Understitch the collar stand on the inside 
Close ends of the collar stand 
Place the collar on the inside of the neckline, stitch, press the seeam allowance up. 
Fold the seam allowance of the outer collar stand under and pin. You can now top stitch or hand stitch to finish. 
Place epaulettes over shoulder seams, stitch in place. 
Press hem inward and stitching. Attached the skirt to the bodice 
Overlock the waist seam and center back seam. Insert the zipper and done!
Finished Sister Mag 16-6 Sleeveless dress
Sister Mag 16-6 Sleeveless dress Details
Credits
Photographer: James Christie Media
Pattern: 16-6 Sleeveless dress supplied by Sister Mag Patterns
Fabric: Ink blue Cora 8 Wal Corduroy from Fabric Deluxe